Hey, I'm Dominic Armato,
dining critic for azcentral.
And, I really don't want to be the bad guy.
But, sometimes that's my job.
Alright.
Everybody loves Restaurant Progress.
It's everything we want in our local dining scene.
It's a quirky, charming little independent joint
in Melrose District run by TJ Culp,
a young chef who threw caution to the wind,
and struck out on his own with a small, creative menu
that fights to distinguish itself from every other kitchen in town.
And it does that.
But, not always in the way he'd like.
The room is exciting and the dishes look gorgeous.
But, the kitchen is so frustratingly error-prone.
Starters like snapper crudo and soy-cured watermelon
are often brutally over-salted.
Cool tenderloin carpaccio is obliterated by far too much mustard.
And watery crab salad is served luke warm.
And burgundy stew beek cheeks would have been wonderful,
if the dish weren't riddled with these inedible wooden bits of poorly trimmed root vegetables.
Now, when Restaurant Progress is on, it's on.
I had some outstanding nutty roasted mushrooms
in a creamy chicken liver sauce.
And the duck - on the visit when it wasn't mostly raw -
was really nice, paired with a silky carrot puree
in a flavorful jus.
Now, you can read more in the full review.
But, the bottom line is that supporting bold,
independent joints is great.
But, carefully prepared dishes need to be the norm
rather than the exception.
I really wish I could give Restaurant Progress
more than two stars.
But, until the kitchen tightens up
I just can't.
This is Dominic Armato for azcentral.
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